Are pressure reducers preset?
A pressure regulator might have a rating of "1-3 bar". This rating often leads to the mistaken assumption that it is preset. However, this is not the case.
To ensure a safe pressure in the system, the pressure reducer must be adjusted for flow after installation . This leads us directly to the most common problem.
Adjusting the pressure reducer – Here's how
It often happens that people turn the pressure regulator and expect something to happen. However, the operating principle of this component works differently.
The crucial point is:
A pressure reducer is not adjusted when the system is stationary, but with the tap open – i.e., when flowing .
Here's how to proceed – step by step
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Open a tap so that water flows.
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Use a screwdriver or Allen key to adjust the water pressure by turning the screw located on top of the pressure reducer while the water is running – turn left for less pressure, turn right for more.
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Close the tap .
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Now read the water pressure using a pressure gauge.
- If necessary, repeat this process until the desired value is reached.
The pressure will therefore be
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changes during flow , but
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read when the system is closed.
What problems can occur if the pressure reducer is incorrectly adjusted?
A correctly adjusted pressure reducer protects the peripheral components of the entire system. Many components are not designed for high pressures and can be damaged, which can lead to leaks and water damage in the camper.
The safety valve is constantly dripping.
To prevent problems caused by excessive water pressure, a hot water boiler has a safety valve, which is usually designed for a maximum pressure of 3 bar . If this pressure is exceeded, the valve opens and water is released from the boiler to reduce the pressure.
Since hot water expands, the pressure reducer must not be set to the permissible 3 bar. The inlet pressure must be lower so that the limit is also observed when the water is heated.
It is recommended to initially set the pressure reducer to 1.5 bar . This keeps the sum of the inlet pressure and thermal expansion just below the 3 bar mark.
If desired, you can also start at 1 bar , heat up the system, check everything for leaks and then slowly work your way up – until just before the opening pressure of the safety valve.
Pressure reducer with or without a manometer?
There are two types of pressure reducers – with and without an integrated manometer.
With built-in pressure gauge
We recommend this option for any self-builder and anyone who is not a professional or does not have a specialist company.
The system pressure can be read directly and no additional device is needed .
Another advantage is that you can easily check the water pressure while on the go.
Pressure reducer with integrated manometer, adjustable from 1 – 5.5 bar, including two 10 mm hose nozzles.
Without a pressure gauge
An external pressure gauge must be connected to the water tap in the camper in order to adjust the pressure.
The procedure is exactly the same, but the external testing device is usually significantly more expensive , less practical to use , and does n't allow for subsequent verification . Even if you were able to borrow an external pressure gauge from a tradesperson or acquaintance, you simply won't have it with you later when traveling.
Simple pressure reducer without integrated pressure gauge, adjustable from 1 – 4 bar, including two 10 mm hose nozzles.
Correct installation position of the pressure reducer
The position of the pressure reducer in the system is just as important as the setting .
The pressure reducer should always be installed after the pump . If water filters are used, it should also be installed after the filter .
Until then, the sequence of components is: tank → pressurised water pump → accumulator tank → drinking water filter.In the following section of the water system, the pipe is split by a T-piece – one pipe, the cold water pipe, goes directly towards the tap, the other pipe is connected to the boiler and forms the hot water pipe.
It is very important when positioning the pressure reducer that it is placed BEFORE this branching of the water pipe.
Why not directly in front of the boiler?
The reason is that we need the same pressure throughout the system .
If the pressure reducer were placed behind the branch and thus directly in front of the boiler, the boiler inlet pressure would be reduced, but the full pump pressure would still be present on the rest of the cold water line (e.g. 4.2 bar for the tigerexped pump).
If you then open the tap to the mixed position (i.e., half hot, half cold), we not only have the problem that less water comes out on the hot water side.
The high cold water pressure of 4.2 bar is also forced backwards through the tap into the hot water line and thus into the boiler – and the pressure remains there because there is a check valve at the inlet, i.e. the cold water side of the boiler .
So, despite the pressure reducer being set, we have a water pressure of 4 bar in the boiler – the safety valve opens – and that's why it's dripping .
Only if the pressure reducer is located before the branch to cold and hot water will the overall system pressure be reduced and all components be protected equally.
Conclusion
A pressure reducer that is correctly adjusted (i.e., set to flow rate) and properly positioned ensures consistent water pressure throughout the entire system.
Our recommendation: Use a pressure reducer with a manometer – so you can check the system at any time, even when you're on the go.